It’s FINALLY that time again! Time to grow some plant babies!
Starting seeds is an exciting and rewarding process that can save a gardener a ton of money and offer up some unique plant selections that aren’t generally available at the big box stores or even some nurseries. It can be done indoors or outdoors, depending on the climate, plant variety and time of year. I started using Seedtime (https://seedtime.us/) last year and it was very helpful in planning when to start different seeds since there are multiple maturity timelines we gardeners need to manage. So let’s dive into the indoor portion of starting your seeds:
Gather Supplies:
- Seeds of your choice. Online sellers I have used are:
- https://www.rareseeds.com/
- https://migardener.com/
- https://www.johnnyseeds.com/
- https://www.gurneys.com/
- Seed starting trays or containers. I discovered the self-watering trays last season and they worked really well as we had some travel planned and I knew it would be a few days before I could visit my plant babies and give them a drink.
This self-watering 70 peat pellet seed starting tray has a special reservoir that keeps seeds moist for up to 10 days. The wicking mat provides the correct amount of water so seedlings maintain the right level of moisture. Included in the kit: 70 Jiffy peat pellets, 36mm diameter- Watertight plastic base tray- Water-wicking mat.
This year, I am using the base and water-wicking mat paired with some different 6-cell trays from Bootstrap farmer and using an organic seed starting mix instead of peat pots.
- Heat mat. Some seeds just need moisture to germinate, some need to be kept at a cozy 70-75 degrees and some need light. I pretty much use a heat mat with everything except the cool weather crops (brassicas, etc)
This is the heat mat I like – https://a.co/d/hm7Jj2G
You’ll need some type of shelf to put your seeds on. A baker’s rack works well because it allows great air flow and also makes hanging the lights a breeze. I use something like this: https://a.co/d/izcGAih
Although, pretty much any old flat surface will do. Just make sure the base is big enough for your tray so you don’t end up with a “waterbed effect” when adding water to your trays. Nobody wants their tray to flop on the floor.
Seed starting mix or soilless mix – I have tried the little Jiffy peat pucks in the past and that may work if you aren’t starting many seeds. I find it is more cost effective to use a seed starting mix to fill the trays. I’ll be testing out an organic seed starting mix that I picked up at my local Fleet Farm made by Espoma. More to come on that after I see how it pans out!
Labels or markers – ask me how I know how important labeling your seedlings is. Once I just cut up a large yogurt container and wrote with a sharpie. I’ve also used popsicle sticks, but those wick up the moisture and tend to break down in the soil. I bought some cheap plant labeling spikes that worked great for me previously and will use them again this season.
Watering can or spray bottle – I literally use an old Ginger Ale 2 liter bottle. Sometimes I will use a spray bottle just to mist them with water but I find that bottom watering (watering from the tray that the cells are sitting in) works best.
Transparent plastic dome or plastic wrap (optional) – This will help to keep the starts moist until they sprout and will cut down on the risk of them drying out too fast. Remove the dome once you have sprouted your plant babies to avoid growing mold instead of plants! When the dome comes off you can even wish them a “Happy Birthday!”
Grow lights (if starting seeds indoors) There are a ton of options out there. Some people even use shop lights from Home Depot. These lights are what has worked for me. https://a.co/d/0rZ4jNb
Starting seeds based on your USDA Hardiness Zone is a smart approach because it helps you understand the specific climatic conditions of your area, ensuring you plant seeds at the appropriate time for optimal growth. Here’s how you can start seeds using a zone map:
Identify Your Hardiness Zone: Use the USDA Hardiness Zone Map https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/ or a similar zone map specific to your region to determine your hardiness zone. This map divides the United States and other countries into zones based on average annual minimum winter temperatures. You can find your zone by entering your zip code or location online or consulting a printed map.
Know Your Last Frost Date: Determine the average date of the last frost in your area. This information is crucial for deciding when to start seeds indoors or directly outdoors.
Refer to Seed Starting Charts or Guides: Many seed packets and gardening resources provide guidance on when to start seeds indoors and when to sow them directly outdoors based on your hardiness zone and last frost date. These resources often include recommended planting dates for various vegetables, flowers, and herbs specific to each zone.
Calculate Backwards for Indoor Starting: For plants that require starting indoors before the last frost date, calculate the number of weeks before the last frost date you need to start the seeds indoors. This duration varies depending on the plant type and its specific requirements. I started using Seedtime (https://seedtime.us/) last year and it was very helpful in planning when to start different seeds since there are multiple maturity timelines we gardeners need to manage.
Prepare Seed Starting Setup: Gather your seed starting supplies, such as trays, containers, soil mix, labels, and watering tools. Ensure your setup is clean and ready for planting.
Start Seeds Indoors: Select seeds that are suitable for starting indoors or outdoors based on your local climate and the time of year.
Prepare Containers: Clean and disinfect seed starting trays or containers to prevent diseases. Fill them with seed starting mix, leaving some space at the top for watering.
Planting Seeds: Follow the instructions on the seed packet for planting depth and spacing. Generally, seeds should be planted at a depth of two to three times their diameter. For super tiny seeds, I like to put a few in the lid to a cottage container or something like that and simply dip a toothpick in some water and pick up one seed at a time with the tip of the toothpick. Works very well so you won’t have 50 seeds sprouting in one cell!
Labeling: Label each tray or container with the name of the plant and the date of planting. This will help you keep track of your seeds as they grow. This will also provide you with the plant stakes needed for when you reach the transplanting stage and your plant babies are ready for bigger pots.
Watering: Use a watering can or spray bottle to water the seeds gently. Avoid overwatering, as it can lead to damping off and other fungal diseases. Putting a thin layer of fine vermiculite on top of your newly planted seeds can help prevent fungus and mold as well.
Covering: If using a transparent plastic dome or plastic wrap, cover the trays to create a mini-greenhouse effect. This helps retain moisture and warmth, promoting germination.
Placement: Place the seed trays in a warm location with indirect sunlight or under grow lights if starting indoors. Most seeds require temperatures between 65°F and 75°F (18°C to 24°C) for germination.
Maintain Moisture: Check the moisture level regularly and water as needed to keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged.
Provide Adequate Light: Once the seeds germinate and seedlings emerge, provide adequate light to promote healthy growth. If using grow lights, keep them on for 12-16 hours a day, adjusting the height as the seedlings grow. I’d recommend using a timer – one less thing to keep track of.
Monitor and Maintain: Regularly monitor your seeds for germination and growth. Provide adequate water, light, and nutrients as needed to ensure healthy seedlings. And when they sprout, make sure to wish them a “Happy Birthday!”
Happy sprouting!
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